I spent two days in the town of Nevada MO with some fellow tear droppers. Here are some of their trailers. One person from Arkansas had the ultimate tear drop accessory, a barbecue mounted on the back.
This tear drop you can stand inside the back, where the kitchen is,
here it is folded up for travel.
More of a classic tear drop, simple yes, but miles better than a tent. 
Two examples of manufactured teardrops.
I reinstalled the now matching hatch.
Here is computer mock up of what I was suppose to build.
Me hiding behind door.
Half way through road test, resting in Florida.
The windows need to have a curve, so lexan is in order. Regular plexi may break when you drill hole in it. First I marked in pencil the hole locations evenly around the opening. They are very visible so neatness counts. Next comes a two person job, one holds the glass from the inside (minding where the other person is drilling), and puts a nut and washer on the machine screws as they appear. the other person drills and puts the machine screws through. After all the fasteners are in loosen and apply a sealer, then retighten the fasteners.
I insulated the floor and covered with 3/8" ply. This may sound thin, but nobody walks on the floor, plus it is covered with a mattress. Note concrete gravity clamp to hold floor down while the glue dried.
In the back I found room for the spare and a tyre iron. The stabilizer jacks will lift the tyre off the ground no problems. The tyre liked to flip out of this strap, so a redesign is in order.
Here is my trailer in northern Alabama last December. Note no snow. Florida here I come.
The kitchen gets its fixed counters. The two holes get removable pieces. I have tried velcro, but they bounced out. Someday I will cover this with counter top covering.
Del's thoughts on electrical, make it easy to expand later. for now it gets two lights and power outlet. The hard part of working with a wood trailer is no metal ground, so I used bus bar purchased from an electronics store. The battery I borrowed from a ridding lawn mower (it is my riding lawn mower), yes my battery box will easily handle a bigger battery, and a deep cycle would be better (wheel chair batteries are deep cycle and small). I secured the box and ran all the ground through the bus bar. The battery is charged when the car is running. I have run my 12v electric blanket up to four 45 minute stints on this set up, with no noticeable light dimming.
Inside I installed a fuse box with more circuits than I thought it would ever need. I wired an interior light, a porch light, and a power outlet. Yes I did secure the wires so they look neeter, and you do not snag them when moving about in the trailer.
Here is the porch light controlled from inside. The plan is to add 110 volt later, and it is another subject.
The bottom was covered with 1/8" ply, then painted with asphalt roof coating. I used two coats, and rubberized undercoating to fill in where I could not reach with the brush. When dry turn back right side up, and do all the body work before bolting to the frame (do not ask).
When the body work is done, primer is in order.
It is time for paint, and to assemble all the hardware back on. I should have waited till now to bolt the body on.
I waited to long to build the hatch, so I had to paint indoors. #$^&&* winter! Yes I used exterior latex, rolled on.
I built an internal hinge, yes you could bang your head on it. I called it the Binford head banger model
Here is the door open.
I used the same latch for the door as the hatch (same key also). I used it for a template for the hole in the door. A notch was necessary, for the door to latch, in the door jam.
Here is the latch put together. A couple of notes the cables are to keep the door in shape (should have put more structure in the door earlier), and the picture was taken in Alabama, so several days of travel made a mess. I used bungee cords, top and bottom, for curtain rods, just drilled holes for mounting points. My neighbor made the matching curtains and bedspread.